Yote Light ??
#1
Posted 28 December 2009 - 07:11 PM
I'm satisfied for the moment with my Scope Mounted Light (Optronics 350yd model), but am probably looking at buy some sort of hat/head mounted light (presently don't use one) as well as a new (lighter weight) hand-held light and would like to know what everyone else is using or would recommend.
thanks !!
99er
#2
Posted 29 December 2009 - 01:30 AM
The cheap lights are ok for coon, and fox most times.. However if your a Eastern Coyote hunter best to have one of the Litenite hunting packages.... If you get one of their scope lights that is good too...Some of the good light packages to get are the Wizard 11. Make sure you get a yellow and red pop lens cover for the light.. Might be wise to order a few replacement bulbs too...
They do have a nice cheap package for about $86.00....Excellent package for the price.. Has a head light with rheostate switch, charger, battery pack, and hat...Might be good to get one of their belts to carry the battery on your side too...Make sure you remember to get the belt a bit larger to use over a winter hunting coat. I have the belt with the suspenders to that take a bit of the heavy weight off of your back.....
#3
Posted 29 December 2009 - 07:00 AM
Uncle Buck, on 29 December 2009 - 01:30 AM, said:
The cheap lights are ok for coon, and fox most times.. However if your a Eastern Coyote hunter best to have one of the Litenite hunting packages.... If you get one of their scope lights that is good too...Some of the good light packages to get are the Wizard 11. Make sure you get a yellow and red pop lens cover for the light.. Might be wise to order a few replacement bulbs too...
They do have a nice cheap package for about $86.00....Excellent package for the price.. Has a head light with rheostate switch, charger, battery pack, and hat...Might be good to get one of their belts to carry the battery on your side too...Make sure you remember to get the belt a bit larger to use over a winter hunting coat. I have the belt with the suspenders to that take a bit of the heavy weight off of your back.....
Thanks UB, I'll peruse those tonight. Do you only those and not a hand-held light also ??
99er
#4
Posted 29 December 2009 - 05:42 PM
rifle. Your best bet would be the Muller illuminated on the gun...The Nitelite head lite with the hood we talked about in previous communications... You got to look like an anteater...You can put one of those Primos shooting lights on your scope too if you do not want to use the hooded light to illuminate the eyes...Remember what we talked about two lights one is your sheld and one is your shooting lights for rifle shooting... Also so important that they be or have the same color lens on it so you do not hit a fox with a white shooting light while you have ared lens light on a broom handle or on your head.. You can't see but the predator will run away on you before you get a shot off... Full moon this week.. Time to go to the yellow lens or white light instead of the red lens light...
#5
Posted 29 December 2009 - 07:25 PM
In looking at the Primos 350-yd Night Blaster light, it looks exactly like my Optronics 350-yd Light (which I'm quite happy with, at least out to 150yds)... do you know if Primos bought out Optronics or are they perhaps just "re-labling" Optronics lights ??
The NiteLight Hat Lights and their Topper Hand Held Light look good; but I'd prefer a Head mounted Light that has head bands. I'd much rather wear it over a Camo Hood than have the the "bill" of a hat getting me "busted" at dusk. I am curious if you happen to know if their 6-volt batteries and pop-on red lens cover are the same on all of their 6-volt models ??
thanks !!
99er
#6
Posted 30 December 2009 - 07:47 PM
http://www.huntsmart...ight_BM235.html
So does this one, if for no other reason, it would make one heck of a homebrew caller case ... LOL
http://cgi.ebay.com/...S:B:SRCH:US:105
99er
#7
Posted 30 December 2009 - 10:31 PM
#8
Posted 31 December 2009 - 03:39 PM
deadeyerik, on 30 December 2009 - 10:31 PM, said:
The short answer to that is "Yes"... Night time calling is generally more productive...but that does not mean that predators can't be effectively called during the daylight hours... 95% of my calling here was done during daylight hours, with the first couple of hours just after sun up, and the last couple just at sun down being the most productive...but I have called predators at all hours of the day........... In some areas it is either illegal to call at night, or you have to jump thru hoops and cut thru bundles of red tape to do so... Oklahoma is of the latter. That is why I very seldom did much night calling.
#9
Posted 03 January 2010 - 04:49 PM
model99er, on 29 December 2009 - 07:25 PM, said:
In looking at the Primos 350-yd Night Blaster light, it looks exactly like my Optronics 350-yd Light (which I'm quite happy with, at least out to 150yds)... do you know if Primos bought out Optronics or are they perhaps just "re-labling" Optronics lights ??
The NiteLight Hat Lights and their Topper Hand Held Light look good; but I'd prefer a Head mounted Light that has head bands. I'd much rather wear it over a Camo Hood than have the the "bill" of a hat getting me "busted" at dusk. I am curious if you happen to know if their 6-volt batteries and pop-on red lens cover are the same on all of their 6-volt models ??
thanks !!
99er
Nope they, the pop covers let say for the Nitelite Headlight or the Nitelite Wheat Light are not the same...Same applies for the Wstern River head lights... They are different but just looking at them it appears that Nitelite Wheat Light are the same covers for the Western River head light...Bwest when you order a light from Nitelite..That you ask the person for a yellow and a red Lens pop cover for the light your buying...
Remember Model99er for coyotes ...You got to make that light look like your one of them Anteaters!!!!!!
#10
Posted 16 January 2010 - 03:34 AM
I checked out the huntsmart site as you suggested; I may decide to go with one of these ...
http://www.huntsmart...ght_CYC9WS.html
It does pay to shop around, they are ~ $10 cheaper at Basspro; too bad, I know someone that used to work there, he would have probably gotten me an "employee discount", hey ??
http://www.basspro.c...prodDescription
I've gotta make a run to the "somewhat" local Batteries Plus Store anyway (for work), and before actually I plop down any of my moldy money anywhere, I want to see what they may happen to have for lights. I also need to give my Bro-in-law a call and see what he might be able to buy for me where he works (a tactical supply place).
99er
#11
Posted 04 April 2010 - 03:30 AM
Screw it, I'm done looking and decided to "pull the trigger" and get one of these ...
http://www.streamlig...uct.aspx?pid=18
I'll be getting the Dual Filament 20W Spot model, which has an ~3.5hr run time in the full power mode.
99er
#12
Posted 07 April 2010 - 01:35 AM
http://www.twincreek...potlight/Detail
It appears to the same battery as my Optronics scope mounted light and I have spares for it and use an old UPS as an "extra charger".
99er
#13
Posted 07 April 2010 - 09:46 PM
No more will I use those cheap.....head lights that are by the cash register in most stores.. You know the ones that go for about $19.99...Are a head light with white and one or two red lights you activate... I have learned by getting busted by Pa coyotes...They can see right through these lights..
Then there are the real bright lights... Things are so bright the fox and or coyote just take off even before you get the gun up....
Then there are the bulky lights....They click against your forearm and it's over because the predator hears the plastic on the wood of the forearm make contact.. So you don't want a light that fights you...
Wow what can I say????You spotting light for eyes should be the same color of the light your going to use for shooting...Instead of using A red lens light to see the eyes you want to maek sure the light that you actually use to illuminate the critter also is red...If you use a yellow lens to ID the incoming animal then your light that you use when you shoot should have a yellow lens..
The bright lights if you could just light them up with the bottom of the beam without giving them a direct light in the eyes you could have them not run away...kind of keep the main beam shooting over the horizon and over the coytoe and fox and light them up with the lower portion of the beam of white light...
I do like the Primos light you posted a link for if it's not equal to one of them there cash register lights...
The other light seems bulky and could end up clicking the forearm...
This past year I started to use only Nitelite type head lights for hunting at night...I make sure the ID light is the same color as the shooting light too.. I do keep one of those cheap cash register lights in my hunting pocket should my Nitelite head light fail...mainly to put on so no one shoots me as I walk back to my vehicle to get another Nitelite or a fesh nitelite battery..
I would say that that bulky light you linked too...Um maybe if you were the caller...You would be the light man...The coyote comes in when your calling the shooter is cross wind... When your ready you drop that bulky light beam from the horizon and light up the bottom of the coyote with the lower portion of the beam.. The shooter then takes the shot...
Just wish that our Pa and Virginia coyotes were not light shy....You know you put the white beam on them and they sit down and just look at you... Thats not how they act back here in the East....
Me thinks...they the Eastern coyotes are not pure breed coyote...They got something special in them....Like wolf......
#14
Posted 08 April 2010 - 02:55 PM
Uncle Buck, on 07 April 2010 - 09:46 PM, said:
The other light seems bulky and could end up clicking the forearm...
This past year I started to use only Nitelite type head lights for hunting at night...I make sure the ID light is the same color as the shooting light too.. I do keep one of those cheap cash register lights in my hunting pocket should my Nitelite head light fail...mainly to put on so no one shoots me as I walk back to my vehicle to get another Nitelite or a fesh nitelite battery..
I would say that that bulky light you linked too...Um maybe if you were the caller...You would be the light man.
UB,
I like that Primos light too ... if I bought them both at the same time, the wifey might decide to light into my ass.
The Nitelight you use, is it the type that is mounted on a hat and has a rheostat to contol the light's intensity ?? How far can you see with it when using the Red Lens and also without it ?? How long does one battery last you and how many "spare batteries" do you have ??
The Streamlight I'm getting may be a tad bulky and heavy, but it's gunna be suspended from my Tripod most of the time anyway. Thou me and Bawanna will take turns running the light/calling vs being the shooter, you can bet the farm that all I'll be toting the vast majority of the time is gunna be the Rifle (mostly my 222).
99er
#15
Posted 08 April 2010 - 07:51 PM
The Nite batteries will last all night... I charge mine after each hunt... As they get older they will start not to hold a charge as long...However you should be good for 4 to 5 years before this starts to happen...
The new ones do have the Rheostat button or knob on it...Nitelite makes a head light kit for $85.00. Cap, head light and charger... You have to buy the pop covers (red and or yellow lens) Good to get a few extra bulbs too... If you look in the catalog or go to www.huntsmart.com...Look for the $85.00 one.. I think they call it the Sport Light....It's an outstanding light for the price....
So you need two light...One on your head or on a broom handle or dowel rod.. and one attached to your gun barrel, scope, etc.. However remember the hood I speak of if you want to use the Muller and only use one light..
Remember this...the red abd or yellow light on your head and or held in front of you is also your shield. Now if you turn down the head light a bit with the rhestat you could use it as a white light to and I would think it also would be your shield.. The high intensity of the light is what scares the critters away.. They will actually start blinking...They are not winking at your 99er...See you hurt their eyes... So the Rheostat is so important...Again your head light or shield light should be the same color as your shooting light.. White can be used for both but keep the intensity down...Too much light scares those critters away...
#16
Posted 20 April 2010 - 11:27 PM
I ordered this one ...
http://www.twincreek...potlight/Detail
... first since it uses the same battery & charger as my current Optronics Scope mounted light.
I haven't ordered the Streamlight yet, since I'm still waiting for my "slow-poke" Brother-in-law to get back with me on what "my" pricing would be.
99er
#17
Posted 25 April 2010 - 12:57 PM
model99er, on 20 April 2010 - 11:27 PM, said:
I ordered this one ...
http://www.twincreek...potlight/Detail
... first since it uses the same battery & charger as my current Optronics Scope mounted light.
I haven't ordered the Streamlight yet, since I'm still waiting for my "slow-poke" Brother-in-law to get back with me on what "my" pricing would be.
99er
Got an email the other day and they are out of stock and won't be getting any in until late summer.
Hopefully I'll have a Streamlight, before too long.
Edit:
Hell yeah, just bought a Streamlight Litebox Light from EBay at bout 1/2 price.
http://www.streamlig...20-7b8998e05361
This one has an 8-watt bulb assemby and has a run time of ~9hrs. If it turns out I need something stronger (which I doubt), I can buy a 20-watt bulb assembly (~3.5hr run time) for it with the $$ I saved.
99er
#18
Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:15 AM
My test results of the Streamlight Litebox with various colored lids configurations, using the 6-Volt 8-watt bi-pin spot bulb:
1. no lid or with an uncolored/clear lid ....... ~250+yds
2. lightest red lid (single side colored) ...... ~150yds
3. lightest red lid (both sides colored) ....... ~125yds
4. darker red lid (both sides colored) ......... ~ 75yds
5. amber colored lid (single side colored) .. ~ 75yds
6. amber colored lid (both sides colored) ... ~ 50yds
It looks like I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a Streamlight 6-Volt 20-watt bi-pin spot bulb. Once I have one in hand, I might be able to find out a number or something on it's packaging that I can maybe determine what bulb vendor Streamlight is using.
I suspect the 15-watt bulb in this link may well work and it would be less of a drain on the battery than the 20-watt bulb (~3.5hr runtime); my guess is a 15-watt bulb would yield about a 5 to 6hr run time between charges ...
http://www.1000bulbs...en-Light-Bulbs/
99er
#19
Posted 26 May 2010 - 01:52 AM
I'v done bought some 3rd party (not Streamlight) 6-volt/15-watt Halogen Bi-Pin bulbs from ebay, with G4 bases, that look like they may well work.
If they don't work, I'm out ~$7; if they do work, I figure I should end up adding at least ~50yds to my test results above, with a runtime of 5 to 6hrs, and have enough bulbs to last me for at least 10 years.
Now, the same quanity Streamlight's 20-watt bulbs would cost me in the $70 to $80 range, they prolly would add closer to 75yards to my test results above, but would reduce the runtime down to ~3.5hrs (per Streamlight).
I'm willin to take the gamble !!
99er
#20
Posted 26 May 2010 - 04:23 PM
model99er, on 26 May 2010 - 01:52 AM, said:
I'v done bought some 3rd party (not Streamlight) 6-volt/15-watt Halogen Bi-Pin bulbs from ebay, with G4 bases, that look like they may well work.
If they don't work, I'm out ~$7; if they do work, I figure I should end up adding at least ~50yds to my test results above, with a runtime of 5 to 6hrs, and have enough bulbs to last me for at least 10 years.
Now, the same quanity Streamlight's 20-watt bulbs would cost me in the $70 to $80 range, they prolly would add closer to 75yards to my test results above, but would reduce the runtime down to ~3.5hrs (per Streamlight).
I'm willin to take the gamble !!
99er
Good luck and keep us posted.
Clint

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